New England Lobster Rolls: the Great Debate (and a compromise)

If you’ve spent any time in New England, chances are you’ve tried a lobster roll. But what you might not know is that New England lobster rolls are a bit of a controversy here, or at least a heated debate. There are lots of opinions swirling around the best recipe (mayo or butter) the best lobster stand, the best bread product… you get the idea. Behind most famous and local foods there are lots of opinions about local traditions and recipes.

While I have my own solid, and correct, opinions on what makes the best lobster roll, I will attempt to stay neutral, and in the an attempt to unify, share a recipe that might bridge the gap. I will not touch on the best lobster shack however – that is for another day.

So what are the big debates around New England Lobster Rolls?

Looking for more New England Recipes? We have a few favorites.

The Best New England Lobster Rolls

Hot with butter or cold with mayo?

This is the big one, and it’s basically a geographic feud. Connecticut does it warm, with lobster meat tossed in melted butter. Maine and most of the rest of New England go cold, with a light coating of mayo, maybe a little celery, maybe a squeeze of lemon.

Here’s my honest take without picking a side too loudly: the butter version tastes more like lobster, and the mayo version is easier to eat while standing on a dock. Both are good. If someone tells you one is the “real” one, they’re mostly telling you where they grew up.

The bun

You want a New England-style split-top bun, the kind with flat sides so it can be griddled in butter. Griddled and toasty on the outside, soft on the inside. That’s the standard.

Some places use a regular hot dog bun, and it’s fine. Some use a brioche roll, which is a little fancy but honestly kind of great. And then there’s the kaiser roll crowd, who I’ll leave alone for now.

Too much filler?

Celery is the one that starts fights. Some people say a lobster roll should be lobster, a whisper of dressing, and nothing else. Others like the crunch. Lettuce is even more divisive, and I’m on the fence, though I’ll say it does make a roll look a little like it’s hiding something.

Overall, I’m on the side of the purists: just lobster meat.

Claw, knuckle, or tail?

Tail is the meaty, chewy, showy part. Claw and knuckle are sweeter and more tender. The best rolls usually mix them, but plenty of stands just go with whatever they’ve got. Honestly it’s all good!

Is it worth the price?

Depending on where you are, a lobster roll can run $30 or more, and yes, a lot of that is tourist tax. Some of the best ones I’ve had came from tiny roadside places that charged less and skipped the ocean view. Pay for the view if you want it, just know that’s what you’re paying for.

My opinion? Don’t overthink it. Get a good one, eat it fast, and pick a side later.

Making your Own Lobster Rolls

So what if you want to skip the tourist tax and just make your own. Well – you can of course choose the butter or mayo, but after living in New England most of my life, I’ve chosen a recipe that combines both. A little butter and mayo – but not too much to overpower the lobster. I first came across this recipe from Heidi Larsen at foodiecrush.

You warm the lobster in butter, then toss it in a light, lemony mayo dressing. Connecticut gets its butter, Maine gets its mayo, and nobody has to leave the table mad. It takes about 20 minutes and makes 4 rolls and is a summer staple in our home.

What you’ll need

• 1 pound cooked lobster meat (thawed if frozen, or the meat from two 1½ to 2 pound lobsters)
• ¼ cup mayonnaise
• ¼ cup minced celery (this is completely optional and I usually don’t use it since my daughter is allergic)
• 1 tablespoon minced chives, plus a little extra for the top
• 1 tablespoon lemon juice
• 1 teaspoon lemon zest
• ¼ teaspoon kosher salt
• ¼ teaspoon black pepper
• 4 tablespoons butter, divided
• 4 split-top buns (brioche or New England style)

How to make it

1. Prep the lobster. Check it for stray bits of shell, then drain it really well and chop it into big chunks. Wet lobster makes a watery dressing and a sad, soggy bun, so don’t skip the draining.
2. Make the dressing. Stir the mayo, celery, chives, lemon juice, zest, salt and pepper together in a big bowl. Taste it and adjust.
3. Warm the lobster. Melt 2 tablespoons of butter in a skillet over medium heat. Add the lobster and stir for about 2 minutes, just until it’s warm. Any longer and it turns rubbery.
4. Combine. Scoop the lobster into the dressing with a slotted spoon and toss gently. Leave the leftover butter and lobster juice in the pan. It tastes great, but it’ll thin out your dressing.
5. Toast the buns. Wipe out the skillet and melt the remaining butter. Trim a thin strip off each side of the buns so the soft insides are exposed, then toast them until golden, about 2 minutes per side.
6. Load them up. Pile the lobster into the buns, sprinkle on a few more chives, and serve right away with potato chips.

A few honest notes

Go easy on the mayo. It’s tempting to add more, but the whole point is tasting the lobster. A scant ¼ cup is enough for a full pound.

The celery is optional. I know I sat on the fence earlier, but I like the little crunch, so I keep it. If you’re a purist, leave it out and nobody will report you.

The lobster is best fresh, but frozen works too – often the local markets sell lobster meat or you can try a fish market.

If you can’t find split-top buns, a regular hot dog bun works. Just make sure it’s soft and fresh, not the sad stale ones at the back of the cupboard.

The chips are non-negotiable. Salt and vinegar is my pick, because the sharpness cuts through all that butter.

My take: this is not going to end the lobster roll wars, but it’s a good roll. Make it once, then go back to arguing about the rest.